Then the curve would reverse, and the same conditions would be met
with again, but on opposite sides from the previous bend. After
passing a creek the evening before, the hills became higher, and from
our camp we could see the first place where they came close on both
sides to the river. We felt now that our beautiful tree-covered
canyons were behind us and from now on we would be hemmed in by the
great eroded canyons of the Southwest. We were sorry to leave those
others behind, and could easily understand why Major Powell had named
this Desolation Canyon.
As the canyon deepened the cliffs were cut into fantastic shapes, as
is usual in rocks unprotected by vegetation. There was a hard rock
near the top in places which overhung a softer formation. This would
erode, giving a cornice-like effect to the cliffs. Others were
surmounted by square towers and these were capped by a border of
little squares, making the whole look much like a castle on the Rhine.
For half a day we found no rapids, but pulled away on a good current.
The walls gradually grew higher and were more rugged; a few trees
cropped out on their sides. At noon our boats were lashed together and
lunch was eaten as we drifted. We covered about three miles in this
way, taking in the scenery as we passed. We saw a great stone arch, or
natural bridge, high on a stupendous cliff to our right, and wondered
if any one had ever climbed up to it. Our lunch was no more than
finished when the first rapid was heard ahead of us.
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